Three years in a row Sunrise Harley Softtail and I took a ruffed grouse within fifteen minutes of opening day, in the xact
same spot.

Heading out early each time, the German shorthair and I would work up a ledged rise, planning to go straight to the Bermuda Triangle cover. The spot has been named for the many grouse that appear there January through August but generally disappear during hunting season.

By the first of these nearly annual success stories, Harley had matured into a bird hunting machine. The county-cruising exuberance of his younger years had faded, saving wear and tear on command central: my lungs and his electric collar.

At age 10, he had a systematically even pace, nose methodically alternating between the ground and a spot just above the brush where scent is most likely to waft. His actions were purposeful; his attitude determined. Halfway into the Triangle the opening morning of his tenth season, he locked tight, beady little eyes riveted on the base of an old apple tree where a handsome grouse pecked at what was to be his last meal.

At age 11, Harley’s battle strategy could be described as surgical. His range had narrowed but his ground intensity had
increased. White eyebrows and a vaguely maniacal expression in his eyes gave him the look of a crazed general bent on conquest– whatever losses might ensue. Fourteen minutes into the season opener, we broke out of the Triangle’s dogwoods onto the logging trail, and he snapped on point. Our second grouse taken on opening morning entered the log book.

A year later at age 12, spacey, nervous and a little shaky, the old boy redefined walk-up hunting. Step by step, Mr. agoo
would pace 10 yards to the right then 10 yards to the left, 10 to the right, 10 to the left. If a grouse lurked within that 20 yard sweep, you could be sure Harley would smell it – or trip over it.

Opening day that year, the winds were light from the northwest, so I circled outside the apple trees and dogwoods, and
entered the Triangle by way of an overgrown trail that ran west before angling north. Sure enough, just 15 yards in,
Harley’s wag accelerated, his nose dipped lower and he downshifted into first gear. Make that sub-first gear. Within seconds, he locked solid for what had become his customary 3.5-second point. Then he sunk to the ground like a pair of saggy plaid trousers on a skinny geezer with no belt.

Quietly as possible, I moved in front of him, gun barrel in pre-mount position. With a roar of beating wings, a broad gray phase bird flushed no more than 20 yards ahead, banking over the curve in the trail. Wide open sky, left to right, and my first shot folded him nicely. The bird fell to the ground as Harley wobbled into the brush to meet its descent.

Three opening mornings, three grouse in the bag before my old dog and I could break a sweat – magic moments in my
grouse hunting history.

SEQUEL:

We tried some woodcock hunting this year. The old guy was a sight to behold: outfitted in his now baggy blaze orange
vest with his boney rear end jutting out, white paws pumping up front, blaze orange beeper collar chirping regularly –
beep, beep, beep – as he trotted stiffly about a foot in front of me all the way up the path to the woods. Eyes forward, mission focused…he didn’t seem to have the slightest idea where we were going or why.

To my right, just a few yards in, a woodcock flushed as Harley tottered by. I swung my gun up, clicked off the safety
and took the bird at the top of its ascent. Yes! On the shot, Mr. Geriatric Airhead whipped around (okay, he sort of turned around) and caught sight of the bird as it fell. Over to it my rejuvenated bird dog ran. Sniffed. Licked a feather. Glanced around with the emptiness of deep space in his eyes…and strolled contentedly back to the path, woodcock left behind for his hunter to fetch home.

GUN POSITION: When a grouse flushes there is very little time to mount, aim and fire your gun. Obviously practice makes perfect, but increase your odds by carrying your firearm at ready. Keep both hands on your gun at all times and have your stock against your side and your barrel at eye level.		POSITION YOURSELF FOR THE FLUSH: If you know that birds consistently flush toward pine stands or mountain laurel, for example, position yourself between the dog and the bird’s most likely escape route.
ALWAYS ASSUME THERE’S A BIRD: When I hunt grouse with excellent bird hunters, the first thing I notice is that they assume there’s a bird under every log, hemlock and shrub. Be ready for every flush and concentrate on the cover. Focus on the middle ground, don’t look at your feet or off in the distance.		BE READY FOR ANOTHER BIRD: Have you ever shot twice at a bird out of range, only to have another flush at your feet? Where there is one there is likely to be more, so be ready for that additional flush or two, especially in the early season. When it does happen, make a note, because that’s a good spot.
NAVIGATE THROUGH COVER: When cover is tight, navigate through the obstructions so you can see ahead of you. Try to move through the natural openings in the forest. Don’t stop in a thick tangle where swinging a gun is impossible. You will be surprised how many more shots you can get when you stay conscious of your positioning.		SCOUTING: If you’re like me, you spend as much time thinking about grouse hunting as you do actually hunting. Make that time productive and scout, so the time you do spend in the woods is successful. Drive the old logging roads in the late afternoon. Use the internet, Google earth is a great way to find early successional growth. Lastly, listen for drumming in the spring and make a mental note of the location, as most likely it’s good cover.
KNOW YOUR COVERS: Few of us are lucky enough to hunt a different cover every time. But for those of us that hunt the same covers year after year, get to know them. Make a mental note as to which way the birds flush, how they react in different weather conditions, and where they are during different times of the day and year.		ASK QUESTIONS: I don’t mean steal your friend’s covers – but it’s no coincidence that people who have hunted a lot of grouse for a long time are good at it. What works for them could work for you.
FOCUS ON THE EDGES: If you are hunting big woods don’t waste time in unproductive cover. Move quickly through more mature stands and slow down in good cover. If you get to know the edges, you can read them like good trout water.		KEEP STATISTICS: Many states will use your statistics to help study birds. I use my computer and keep extensive records on all of my hunts. I use it to show the success of each cover year after year, and to provide insight into the success of my techniques. If you would like a copy of my spreadsheet, please email me at trippway@gmail.com.

 

 Despite our best laid plans and detailed lists, we usually forget something we need on a hunting trip. We may forget something as seemingly minor as reading glasses, which makes it impossible to read a map or a menu. That’s an oversight easily rectified. What about a checklist for some of the most important elements of the trip – the
dogs? Here’s a look at some key items which can make or break a trip with your canines.


BEFORE YOU GO

Microchip or tattoo – There are a number of different companies which make microchips, and in the past, not all scanners could read every company’s chip. With the advent of universal scanners, microchips make more sense than ever. It’s an inexpensive and permanent way to identify your dog, as are tattoos.

Photos – If you should lose your dog, you can provide photos to local dog wardens, shelters and law enforcement agencies. Health check up and records – Schedule a vet visit before your trip, so that your dog is up-todate
on shots and free of parasites. Ask your vet to provide a health certificate, which you may need if your dog
should bite another dog or person, be bitten by another dog or wild animal, or otherwise be injured. Also be sure to
ask your vet for FortiFlora (more on that below). Purchase temporary dog tags which will have the phone number of
the campground, hotel or lodge where you’ll be staying on your trip.

ESSENTIAL GEAR FOR TRAVEL

Crates and dog boxes – Plastic, wire, or aluminum? Our dogs need proper ventilation, yet should not be exposed to dampness and drafts. How do you balance those requirements? Choose what will work best with your vehicle, and consider changes in air temperature as you travel.

If you have an SUV, dog crates can be positioned by the rear hatch, for easy access during rest stops. However, keep in mind that air temperatures inside a vehicle can increase to dangerous levels in just minutes.

If you have a pick-up truck, the aluminum-sided, insulated dog carrier models may be a better choice. An open-wire or plastic airline-style crate, in the back of a pick-up on the highway, is subjected to a 65 mileper- hour wind chill, in addition to the outside temperature. That windchill effect takes a layer of warmth away from the dog. Even if your pickup has a cap, such crates should be fitted with insulating covers for travel; and in either case, the crates should be lashed to the truck body. Be certain that no exhaust fumes are entering the area where the dogs are confined.

Stake-Out – One of the first things you hear when people arrive for a field trial are the metallic pings as they hammer their stake outs into the ground. The metal posts are topped with a swivel ring, so that the dog can move around in a circle. You should condition your dog to the practice before you go. On the road, being able to stake-out your dog for exercise periods can really simplify your rest-stop duties, especially if you are traveling with multiple dogs, and the stake-outs are also handy once you reach your destination, whether it’s a lodge or a campground. Get in the habit of keeping an old hammer with your stake-outs.

IN THE FIELD

Tracking collars and collars – I know of at least one human who’s worn a gps tracking collar while grouse hunting with his friends, who tired of losing track of him all the time. They liked to describe him as outstanding in his field meaning, literally – out, standing in some field somewhere.

In the grouse woods, having a way to find your dog without making a bunch of noise is invaluable. Since grouse cover is thick, and sounds may be muffled, a good tracking collar is an essential item. Your cell phone number, complete with area code, should be on the dog’s collar. You may also wish to include a temporary tag with a local contact number.

Portable water – Water is fairly heavy, two pounds for a quart. You’ll need to balance the load to comfortably carry water for you and your dog. Consider a fanny pack with lumbar support, dual water holders, and a center pocket big enough for a first aid kit and snacks. A great combination for a long day in the field would be to use a fanny pack for
the dog’s water, and a water bladder worn on your back with a hose for drinking for yourself.

First Aid Kit – At the bare minimum, your kit should include EMT gel, nail clippers, vet wrap and gauze pads. Many dog injuries in the field are cuts and tears to feet, toenails, ears and eyes. A couple sheets of moleskin can be invaluable as a cover for skinned pads (not to mention blisters on human feet). If a dog has an injury that involves bleeding,
you can use a gauze pad to apply pressure, and secure it with the vet wrap. The vet wrap can also be used to help stabilize a more serious injury, such as a broken leg.

THE LITTLE THINGS

FortiFlora – As we pack for a trip, and during travel, we’re keyed up with adrenalin. Dogs sense the feeling of excitement. Add that to the stress of travel, and your dog may fall victim to an imbalance of good bacteria in his gut. You’ll know by the loose stools and diarrhea. That means that he won’t be properly utilizing the nutrition in his food, and
it can also cause dehydration. Even slight dehydration in a dog can cause problems.

FortiFlora is a food additive composed of microencapsulated probiotics to restore the balance of good bacteria in the dog’s system. It comes in small packets and is available from your veterinarian. It’s so palatable that, when added to food, it can even encourage a travelstressed dog to eat.

Locks – If your dog will be unattended in your aluminum dog box, make sure his door is padlocked, instead of just clipped shut. Nothing says, “I’m a valuable dog” like an out-of-state plate and a vehicle parked at the edge of grouse cover.

Batteries/chargers – Make a list of the sizes of batteries you need for all your gear, from your collar beeper to your flashlight and bring extras. Don’t forget collar chargers. When we’re planning for a trip and packing our gear, most of us
work from a master check list to make sure we don’t forget anything. It’s also wise to have a check list titled Dog Gear, since the care of our grouse dogs is such a vital part of a successful trip.